snapshots from India

Just got back from a 2-week trip to India in December/January. We made it back home towards the end of this epic polar vortex, so thankfully we didn't experience significant delays coming back.

We traveled to Jaipur, which is in the state of Rajasthan in northwest India.

We took a train ride first from A.'s hometown to Sawai Madhopur, which took close to 6 hours. Traveling by train in India is an experience. It's the real-deal India, A. says. In my opinion, it's where you experience the fervor and intensity of India. I don't know if fervor and intensity are the best words to capture it, but it's how I (as an outsider) would describe the experience. You take it all in - the rush, the crowds, the sounds, the sights, the fully saturated colors.

As we went farther away from the city and into the countryside, I saw this for miles and miles:

(Side note: I believe that is A.'s niece you hear talking in the video. She loves the expression "Arrey!" - their equivalent of "Hey!")

The yellow flowers are the flowers of the mustard plant. Indian cuisine relies heavily on the tadka, which refers to spices - including black mustard seed - tempered in hot oil. Tadka is then added to flavor dishes such as dal (lentils), vegetable stir-fries, and stews.

We spent one night in Sawai Madhopur:

India has no shortage of forts, one of which being Ranthambore Fort. While exploring the fort, we were treated to this beautiful sunset:
I saw an area that has multiple piles of rocks. I asked A. what they were, and he said that they symbolized people's wishes and prayers. People would pile rocks into these tower-like formations, as you can see below.

I saw a man and a woman who seemed that the were measuring something on the ground using the length of their bodies. It was something I had never seen before. A. explained that some people pray so fervently and promise God that if their prayer is answered, they would travel the entire length of the fort all the way to the temple at the end, not on foot but by laying on the ground. The man and the woman each laid down on his/her side, extended an arm up to mark the spot, then stood up and laid down again starting from the spot where their hand reached (does that make sense? I thought of taking a video, but decided against it as I thought it may be disrespectful - it seemed like such a sacred act). They did this again and again, as they promised. It's indescribable, and yet again an illustration of the fervor and intensity of India.   

The next morning we went on an animal safari from an open truck. It was so cold that we bundled up in our jackets, shawls, and woolen blankets. We saw deer, spotted deer, and antelope. Unfortunately I don't have a lens with good enough zoom for wildlife photography, so I don't have visuals to share on that one...

We then drove about 3 hours to Jaipur, where we spent 4 days. I loved the many patterns and colors in the decor of our hotel:

Aside from forts, India has no shortage of palaces either, particularly those built during the Mughal empire.

 

Apparently, I have a thing for doors, windows, and arches. But how could you not with such amazing architecture?

A.'s niece and nephew

A random window, spotted while driving in Jaipur:

Another illustration of the vibrant color in India:

This was my first Christmas spent away from my immediate family. Prior to the trip, I wondered what Christmas would be like in India. My in-laws, once again, continue to amaze me with their graciousness. My sister-in-law and niece chose a Christmas present for me, a figurine of the Blessed Mother and Child. They even took me to church for Christmas.

On our previous trip to India in 2012, we went to Agra and visited (yet another) fort/palace built during the Mughal empire. (I realize I haven't even organized my pictures from last year's trip!) There was a pillar that caught my attention, due to its many intricate patterns.

The guide explained, each row of patterns symbolizes one of the world's great religions (in no particular order): Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism, Islam. Each pattern was so intricate, so precise - the level of detail is just incredible. The Mughal emperor at the time was a progressive-minded one, to showcase a design that captured the great religions in a pillar supporting a structure. Quite symbolic.

The names of the forts, palaces, emperors, and other historical details all start to blur for me, but what struck me most is this idea of connection. It's all there - the connections, the sameness - as A. and I figure out our interfaith life, it's all about the connections between the unique histories and cultures of our respective families.

"Travel is not always about newness, sometimes the beauty of travel is in discovering connections rather than the differences." - Eram Agha

bits and pieces of home

I'm not a good storyteller.

I don't remember details of what was said by whom and how it was said and when.... much to my mother's chagrin when she wants to hear juicy stories of moments like when A. proposed and what-not. My mom, on the other hand, remembers everything, from the exact words to the speaker's intonation. In contrast, I might remember a few quick conversational exchanges at the most, but that's about it. I do have a really good memory for strange purposes/things like restaurant menus. Don't judge.

All that said, I don't have a long story of my trip to India and the Philippines. My amazing, month-long, 12-airports-in-30-days trip.

What I do remember, are images. Moments captured either on camera, but mostly those that are in a freeze-frame in my mind. And I remember, with clarity, what I felt at the time.

So my stories might come in short bursts here in there. Not necessarily in chronological order.

Even this post took me several "installments" to write, because the stories come back when I least expect it, and not in any linear fashion. So I write in bits and pieces, what I remember and when I remember it. And I write, so that I can remember.

(And also, I had to hit the ground running as the semester started a couple of days after I arrived back here... hence having to write in small chunks of time here and there.)

I surprised myself by not taking as many pictures as I thought I would on this trip, especially in the Philippines. Under other circumstances, photography helps me appreciate the moment and pay attention to details. But a big part of me wanted to just soak it all in, and not behind a camera. With the thinking that the several seconds or that minute I spend getting the settings on my camera just right for each shot adds up, over the course of a month and hundreds of pictures, to potentially hours spent not being fully present with my family. 

~

I remember this tug at my heartstrings watching my sweet niece P. Thinking about how fast she's growing, and how she sometimes talks like an adult even at age 4. How she asked me to read the book I gave her, The Princess and the Pizza (in which the heroine has the same name as she! And as a side note, I love the feminist perspective of the story), again and again during a road trip. And how affectionate she is to everyone, randomly giving hugs, kisses, and I-love-yous to any member of the family, including A.

my niece's naturally wavy ponytail

Oh, and I do remember this one brief exchange as retold by my brother (her dad).

One morning, while we were vacationing in Cebu (a city south of the capital, Manila), P wakes up, and with her eyes half-closed she stretches in bed, and sleepily says: "I love Tito A." (as in my husband A.). Mind you., A. wasn't even with us at the time, because he had to fly home to Cleveland sooner. And then, almost like she suddenly remembered, her eyes open fully and she sees my brother standing in front of her. Then quickly, she says:

"Oh, I love you too, Dad."

Nice save, P. :)

And it made me reminisce with my parents, those days when my nephews (now pre-teens... how did that happen?) were babies. And my other 4-year-old niece's voice mail saying, "Hi Tita Mia, I'm big now, I'm going to school."

~

I remember both the warmth that accompanies that trip-down-memory-lane, as well as the slight ache in my belly (that is where I feel things, you know. Again... don't judge) as I pored over old photos of my late grandparents, framed and preserved in my parents' home. The home I grew up in.

Like this one. My grandfather, the perfect example of "chivalry is not dead" -- even as they were approaching 90 (!) -- asked my mom to set up a candelit dinner for two in our gazebo for their 60+ wedding anniversary.

One of my parents snapped this picture then, and while I did not witness this moment in person, it made me remember all his other romantic gestures toward my grandma. Like quoting Shakespeare to her, out of the blue, as they sat in our lanai overlooking the garden, resting after a long afternoon of tending to their flowers and plants.

~

I remember, with the same clarity as the turquoise waters of Boracay, a shift in perspective.

Under other circumstances, work fills my mind majority of the time. And yes, you'll probably hate me for this but I did work a bit while I was away - I had to finish grading in India because we flew out the very next day after my last day of teaching. Then twice I had to wake up for 2 am conference calls for my new consulting job, to speak to people who did not know I was away and in a completely opposite time zone. But I did not work much else aside from that. It was refreshing to not have work occupy so much space in my brain, and instead linger at the breakfast table.

Work is a means to an end, not an end in itself.

I know, it's nothing groundbreaking. And while I always knew that, I felt it even more strongly with the limited time I had with my family. And what a blessing that was. Yes, working is what pays the bills and helps us travel, and we are absolutely thankful for that. But the bigger picture, really, is family...and old friends who are practically family. Nurturing those relationships that enrich our lives like nothing else does.

Not all my projects, each at a different stage toward completion. Not the fact that I need to get my manuscript published. They always say in the world of academia, "publish or perish". But in the bigger picture, it's really not the end of the world.

But my niece will only be 4 years old once. And I will only stand at this exact spot at this exact time on this exact date once in my life.

Boracay, Philippines

It is a gift.

~

*For a detailed review of the foodie experience in the Philippines, from the unique perspective of an Indian national-US citizen-current resident of Germany-honorary Filipina (whew!), visit my friend's blog post here.

*I also have India on my mind. But those stories will come in bits and pieces as well. More on that later.

*Tito = Uncle, Tita = Aunt

Manila (Philippines) on my mind

Aaaand we're back.

I have so much to write about, but my thoughts are still in random snippets of words and images. Images that may or may not have made it into my camera, but rather images stored in my mind. Sensations, emotions, and thoughts that are not quite coherent yet.

About how traveling reminds me just how startlingly beautiful this world is.

The colors of the sky viewed from the window of the airplane... God's brushstrokes on his infinite canvas.

The endless expanse of varying shades of blue, the perfection of sea meeting sky. The magic of a sandbar - a narrow strip of white sand which, for a few fleeting hours, felt like our own private island before it disappeared into the water.

The dewy scent of the lush tropical garden in my parents' home, the home where I grew up. If green had a scent, this would be it.

The almost intoxicating fragrance of a ripe Philippine mango, which I ate everyday like it was a gift.

The genuine embrace from the little arms of a 4-year-old.

The warmth of my mother's hands... though they look different, they feel exactly the same to me as they did 25 or 15 or 5 years ago.

Reuniting with childhood friends... picking up where we left off as though no time has passed. And noticing how we laugh just like our teenage selves did many years ago, but we speak with more wisdom and maturity.

The comforting feeling of HOME. Of FAMILY. Of shared meals, memories, and yes, dare I say even the notorious Manila traffic jam.

...Ok, maybe not the Manila traffic.

sandbar off the coast of Cebu | photo by my brother Carlo

I've still got sand in my shoes
And I can't shake the thought of you

- Dido

Asheville Highlights, Day 3

April 19th: Day 3 of my Asheville weekend.

So I woke up to my last day of my short-but-sweet Asheville visit. Day 3 started with breakfast again at the inn. I was fortunate to have perfect weather on Days 1 and 2, but Day 3, Sunday, was cloudy and rainy. I thought, maybe the rain will lead me to some nice surprises.

I decided to visit the Grove Arcade, a beautiful, historic building that opened in 1929, that is now home to local boutiques and restaurants. With the weather being the way it was, some indoor sightseeing was perfect. Besides, I did much of my outdoor sightseeing the past couple of days, and had a wonderful nature fix and a self-guided downtown walking tour.

So after a very short drive from the inn to downtown Asheville, I parked by the Arcade and walked in. Interestingly, it was deserted. Pretty, but deserted. Well, it was about 11-ish in the morning (I checked out of the inn at 11 am). And it was a Sunday.

This sign explained it all:

But that's all part of Asheville's charm, I think.

There was a cheese store... which was closed. 

And a bakery...

And a bath products store...

Love the light and open feel of the building. I can imagine how the lighting inside would change dramatically depending on the time of day.

I headed outside and found some locals selling their wares on the sidewalk. I love sidewalk shopping!

There was a "cowboy" selling paintings...

  And a woman selling handmade jewelry.

These beads remind me of home!

Interestingly, they were laid out on rice grains.

A pretty display of colorful earrings.

Handwritten signs add a personal touch.

 

The one and only photo of me :)

It was a solo trip, after all...

 

I also ended up stopping at the Grove Corner Market, a little deli/grocery store that sold some of your pantry staples, some fresh takeout items, and some specialty items. When I am in a new place, I always want to try something different and unique to the place. I saw these cookies:

 

Lavender Lemon and Saffron Cardamom tea biscuits... YUM!

I don't say no to lavender... and I was curious about the combination of saffron and cardamom in a tea cookie. I imagined it to be a hint savory, and a hint sweet.

 

 

The cookies were amazing.

AND I think this might have been the best find:

Lavender honey... from the mountains of North Carolina! 

So my next kitchen project would be to re-create the lavender honey dark chocolate truffle that I had on Day 2. :)

The rain started pouring at at around noon... so I decided to head back and start the 6 hour drive home. 

So that concludes my short-but-sweet Asheville trip... 

Asheville is such a charming place. Nature. Art. Food. A progressive vibe. Without the big-city stress, but with all the Southern hospitality.

I can't wait for my next visit.

Asheville Highlights, Day 2/Part 2

April 18th: Day 2/Part 2. After a peaceful morning at the North Carolina Arboretum, the foodie and art lover in me was ready for the downtown Asheville food trip and art gallery hop.

But first, I decided to head back to the inn, have last night's leftovers (from Zambra) for lunch. Since the paella was good for two, I saved half of it to go and was able to store it in the inn's refrigerator.

So I decided that lunch was Zambra "take two", on the inn's patio. I enjoyed the vegetarian paella again, this time al fresco.

Then I had to figure out my plan for the rest of the day...

I drove downtown, parked my car, and started to walk towards this "must" destination on Lexington Avenue....

the gates of heaven, in my opinion :)

On the menu were chocolates in all forms. Cakes, solid truffles, and liquid truffles in various flavors. I opted for the lavender honey liquid truffle (because I love lavender in dessert). Thick, bittersweet hot chocolate with the subtle but distinct flavors of lavender-infused honey.

Some minutes later...

 This needs no explanation.

I could really use a spatula right now (to scrape all that chocolate goodness from the cup). Believe me, I would have.

Blissed-out from chocolate, I then decided to continue my walk. I stopped at this art gallery/shop:

Kress Emporium has almost any art form you can think of - from photography to paintings, jewelry, fabric, woodwork, glasswork... I loved it!

Then I continued on and saw this bookshop. I love small, cozy, local bookstores!

 In case the photo is too small, the sign reads:
"Coffee, Books, Cards, and nice folks inside!"

I went in...

and came out with a couple of books. 

One of which is this delightful kid's book that I gave to my niece. 

I love how local/independently-owned bookstores have this sign.

And the kids' version:

There's something about being inside a children's bookstore that makes me want to be a carefree child again, who believed in her heart that she could one day become a mermaid or a dolphin. :)

I stopped at an old-fashioned ice cream parlor in time to see someone making sugar cones.

 

And there you have it...

But I didn't buy anything, as I was still slightly full from the liquid truffle I had earlier, AND I had the Laughing Seed Cafe next on my meal itinerary. I had really been looking forward to trying this place, for all its vegetarian options. (I admit to perusing their online menu a few times before my trip - there were so many choices!)

It was a nice evening, so I asked to sit outside and dine al fresco. 

I wanted something clean-tasting and somewhat light, because I had dessert in mind. So I opted for all-vegetable sushi....

It had marinated tofu, butternut squash (a bit surprising because this is not the season for squash) and broccolini. To be honest, it was... ok. Not life-changing. (In  my opinion, this place in Cincinnati serves the best sushi, hands-down... and they have at least 3 really good vegetarian sushi rolls.)

Then....

What Asheville calls "The World's Best Carrot Cake", which I remember seeing online and was happy to find at this local, eco-vibe coffee shop during my walk.

It was REALLY good. Moist and flavorful, with an excellent texture from the carrots and nuts. And, the cream cheese frosting was not at all overwhelming and overly sweet like some frostings. I think this cake was deserving of its name. I think I ate 1/4 of it and saved the rest for tomorrow.
(Even the to-go container was made of recycled materials.... which I found to be quite common in the restaurants I visited in Asheville.)

So on that note, I end my nature-tripping, food-tripping, and art gallery-hopping Saturday. 

Photos and highlights from Day 3 coming soon...